Grand-Paws and Grandma's

A couple of Christmases ago a friend of my roommate at the time gave her sausage as a gift. As they are both foodies, sausage was an entirely appropriate gift. Actually, I guess sausage is a pretty great gift for anyone. Well, it’s not a good gift for vegetarians. Anyway, this particular sausage was unprecedented.

My grandfather used to give my dad, and all the kids, a Virginia ham, in a cloth sack, for Christmas. Dad used to hang it on a hook from the ceiling of our kitchen until we ate it. Sometimes two hams were hanging around as dad didn’t get to them quickly enough (they do serve about 30 people). 

My memories of granddad, Paw as all the grand-kids called him, are fairly vivid. Sadly, my grandmother, whom I know of as Janie, died right before I was born, so Paw lived alone with his cat, Smokey. I remember he prepared these amazing sausage biscuits that seemed to ALWAYS be made-up and ready to eat, in the kitchen. He had pomade-slicked back hair, wore big, thick glasses, and he was a lot smaller than my dad. He was, almost always, in his recliner chair, with the TV on. He smelled like Pall Malls and whiskey and, although he was mean to his cat, he was a gentle and kind man. Hell, he did a great job raising my dad. Anyway, I loved him.

Funny thing, I always thought his name was Paul, not Paw. One Christmas, I sent him a card addressed to Paul. My mom thought it was so “cute” that she didn't say anything, and let it be sent as such. I have yet to hear the end of that "cute" story.

The sausage that my roommate got for Christmas that year was so amazing that I ate pretty much all of it, and had to order more to replace it for her. Ever since, I order this sausage regularly. It has caused me to really explore all that one can do with sausage since I want to incorporate it into so many dishes.

The coolest thing about the sausage, and what makes it even more magical, is that it’s called Grandma Broadbent’s. How can I not think of Paw and Dad and Christmas?

For the past few years I have stepped into Paw’s role as the Christmas pig product provider (dig the alliteration) for my dad. One year I gave him the bacon-of-the-month club, another year he got the awesome sausage, and last year he got a whole ham. I just spoke with him on the phone and, as he has not yet eaten it (seems like old times), he was in the process of putting a hook back in the old spot to hang the ham.

I have made this recipe countless times. I first made it with Grandma Broadbent’s Sausage, and have worked with many other kinds since – including some impressive ones I found at an open air market in the south of France. Absolutely none hold a candle to Grandma’s.

 *Although I doubt Paw would necessarily care for this dish (but I bet Janie would), I dedicate this post and this recipe to his memory.

Tagliatelle with Sausage, Peas & Mint

Serves 4

Ingredients:

1 16oz package tagliatelle pasta

½ lb Grandma Broadbent’s sausage

1 ½ cup fresh peas

½ cup fresh mint, chopped (I used a blend of chocolate, lime and candy mints from my garden)

2 shallots, chopped

3 cloves garlic, chopped

2 tbsp butter, divided

1 cup half & half

1 cup grated asiago cheese

Salt & pepper to taste

Directions:

In a heavy saucepan or cast iron skillet over medium high heat, cook sausage. When it has provided some oil in the pan, add shallots, garlic and peas. Cook until sausage is browned and add mint, half & half, remainder of butter and cheese and stir until everything is smooth and blendy.

Meanwhile, in a large saucepan of boiling salted water, cook the tagliatelle until barely tender, drain.

Spoon sausage mixture over pasta, salt and pepper to taste, sprinkle a little bit of chopped mint on top, and serve.

7. India Jones Chow Truck

Oh. My. Goodness. Gracious.

So I know I’m a big hoser for not having the moxie (YET) to go to the Fishlips Sushi truck. To their credit (I totally cased the joint in during my choice-of-truck-debate, today), they look entirely on point, clean and, even, kind of shi-shi-la-la, as far as food trucks go. But we must move on. No point in dwelling on the matter. I’ll get there eventually.

And so, when we last left our heroine, she was just finishing her skewers, and debating sushi, when she noticed the India Jones Chow Truck pull up in front of her.

The deal was sealed. I had wanted this one for a while. I was, pretty much, the first person to order as I got to watch them set up shop. I sidled up to the window and, as always, asked for suggestions. The owner, Chef Sumant, told me the special, Beef Stew with Rice was delicious, as was the Butter Chicken (he also said that everything was delicious – which, really, never helps). In the end I went for the Lamb Frankie (I mean, it says "I Love Frankie" on the truck) ($3.50) and Samosa Spring Rolls ($3). My friend ordered the Butter Chicken ($6.50). This was perfect as these were the three main items I wanted to try. I will say that the entire menu looked delicious. This was a difficult decision, but it ended up being the perfect one.

The samosas were a lot of fun. They were shaped like spring rolls, but all other signs pointed to samosas. The only downside, conceptually, is a samosa has such a thick, heavy pastry exterior that the tetrahedron-shape can hold much more of the inside goodness of spiced potatoes, onions, peas and coriander, to offset the shell. With the spring roll shape one is left with a bit too much of the pastry, making it seem greasy and heavier than it should.

I was very pleased with the lamb frankie (an Indian street style sandwich). It was somewhat delicate with soft, warm naan wrapped around tender lamb, onion and Indian spices, tamarind chutney and a bit of egg. It’s a great portion, which allows for one to try one or two other menu items (if one didn’t eat at another food truck moments before).

My friend’s butter chicken, however, stole the show. It was rich, nutty creamy, with the most diminutive whisper of heat. The chicken was succulent and they definitely had the right rice (see rice picture). At $6.50 I still say too expensive for a food truck, but the portion was more than ample and it was, seriously, an impressive number.

India Jones (much like it’s namesake) is a winner!

I will most assuredly return (maybe even before the truck #25!) as I want to sample each and every item on their menu.

6. Skewers on Wheels

October 7, 2009

Stove Top twice in one night!?

My word, I am just wild and crazy. I ate at TWO food trucks today. I wasn’t even that hungry, but I was in the area and knew that the elusive Fishlips Sushi truck would be there. If you have been following my adventures, you know I’ve mentioned that I am ever so slightly uneasy about the Fishlips Truck. I’m sure it’s perfectly fine, probably great, even, but eating sushi from a roving truck makes me all feel funny deep down on the inside.

I also knew the India Jones Chow Truck was supposed to show, although I didn’t see them. However, Marked 5 was there with their buddies Skewers on Wheels. So as I stared at the Skewers menu, trying to find ways to postpone the whole sushi thing, yet again, I came to a realization. I could get a couple of skewers at one truck and a piece, or two, of sushi at another. This way don’t have to fully commit to sushi on wheels, and can check two trucks off of my list. I am brilliant (this is not cheating, so lay off).

After perusing the menu of skewers, tacos, burritos and handrolls (????), I ordered the carne asada and chicken breast skewers ($2 each). I wanted the chicken thigh with yellow onion option, but they had none. Oh yes, and I was one of the first people to arrive for the lunch period. How could it be that they were out of anything at that point?

Back to the skewers. They grill these on Japanese charcoal and coat them in a teriyaki sauce. I am aware that I didn’t order anything all that substantial, or off the beaten path, but I was admittedly overwhelmingly underwhelmed. Both the chicken and the beef were hard and rubbery and I bit into a yucky, sinewy, knuckly thing in the chicken. Additionally, I found nothing enthralling about the marinade/sauce. 

There are many skewer options, I hear, but today’s menu seemed a bit sparse. So here’s the deal: I would be willing to return (after the 25 truck mission has been accomplished, mind you) and give them another day in court. I also realize that it’s entirely possible that, I am the doltish one, for not fully committing an entire lunch to one truck.

Which reminds me, while I was skewerizing, the India Jones Chow Truck pulled up and parked. Another diversion from sushi-on-the-go-times… Sigh, I guess you know what’s coming next.

The Aleph

You probably think I’ve been doing so much food trucking lately that I have left my own kitchen high and dry. This is certainly not the case, however. There is much, much more than just Gozer the Gozerian in my refrigerator. The truth is I have been cooking up a storm lately. The weather shift has finally, permanently, moved us into considerably cooler realms (I even used the fireplace in my living room for the first time, last night!), which means cozy, comfy foodnesseseses.

Very recently, I have been experimenting with a meatloaf recipe (which is driving me mad), attempting to perfect the brown crust on a grilled steak, slow-roasted a chicken, playing with brussels sprouts and hazelnuts and browned butter (!), and mastering the art of pizza dough. I also made a ridiculously scrumptious cauliflower soup.

The other day, I bought a head of cauliflower at the market with no specific design for it in mind. Although I have no disinclination towards cauliflower, I really have never fully embraced all that it has to offer. I have often cut it into florets and roasted it with ghee and garam masala (I do so love Aloo Gobi and other Indian dishes with cauliflower), but that’s pretty much the extent of my own cauliflower kitchen times.

Aesthetically and conceptually, I have always been drawn to cauliflower’s fractal dimension. This vegetable is boundless - there is no end to it. You can look at it in it’s entirety but you can never see all of it You will always be finding something new. It's quite possible that when you look at a portion of this vegetable, you may be looking at something that nobody has ever seen before. From every angle of the universe, I suddenly see that my cauliflower is the most complex, beautiful and unique thing in all the land. The cauliflower is me. The cauliflower is you.

So I figured I best do something special with this one. I needed to think hard. I knew I wanted to roast the cauliflower first, to have those wonderful, enhanced nutty flavors. But I needed to find an accent that rivaled the complexity and richness of this cauliflower. And then it hit me: saffron.

Each saffron flower only contains three of the yellow orange stigmas that must be hand picked, making it the world’s most expensive spice – worth more than its weight in gold, in fact. In India its color is considered the epitome of beauty and is the official color of Buddhist robes. Saffron was used to scent the baths and public halls of Imperial Rome. Francis Bacon wrote of saffron, “it maketh the English sprightly”. It's pungent with honey nuttiness. It's both mighty and diaphanous, and it is divine.

And what platform, for me, to better to showcase these two utterly perfect gems than, of course, a soup. I am extremely happy with this recipe, I must admit. It’s seasonal, snuggly, rich, earthy and, yet, entirely delicate. This soup elicits a myriad of textures and flavors. It’s infinite.

*My friend, Brandon had better scramble to the kitchen to prepare this recipe, whether he's a cook or not. It's just simply too fitting.


Roasted Cauliflower Soup with Saffron and Asiago Cheese Crisps

Serves 6

Ingredients:

1 1/2 pounds cauliflower, cut into1/2- to 3/4-inch pieces

2 shallots chopped

2 garlic cloves chopped

2 tbsp olive oil

2 cups water

2 cups chicken stock

1/4 teaspoon coarsely crumbled saffron threads

3 tablespoons butter

1 small onion chopped

1 cup half and half

Salt and pepper to taste

6 tbsp grated Asiago cheese

Directions:

Preheat oven to 425°F.

Cut cauliflower into 1-inch flowerets (about 10 cups). In a large baking pan toss cauliflower, garlic, and shallots with oil to coat and roast in middle of oven about 30 minutes, or until golden.

Combine 2 cups water and 2 cups low-salt chicken broth in medium saucepan. Bring mixture just to simmer. Remove from heat. Add saffron threads. Cover and steep 20 minutes.

Melt 3 tablespoons butter in heavy medium pot over medium-low heat. Add chopped onion and sauté until very tender but not brown, about 10 minutes. Add cauliflower, shallots and garlic pieces; stir to coat. Add saffron broth. Bring to simmer over high heat. Reduce heat, cover, and simmer until cauliflower pieces are tender, about 20 minutes.

Working in batches, puree cauliflower mixture in food processor until smooth. Transfer cauliflower puree to large saucepan. Stir in half and half and bring to simmer. Season to taste with salt and pepper. (Can be made 1 day ahead. Cover and refrigerate. Bring to simmer before serving.)

Place the grated cheese on a baking sheet, shaped in 6 small discs. Bake at 350°F for 5-8 minutes.

Ladle soup into bowls. Garnish with Asiago cheese crisps and serve.


Printable Recipe

5. Barbie's Q

October 5, 2009

I am pretty sure my clothes are already tighter. I’ve only just hit truck #5, today. With 20 more to go before the end of the year, it’s safe to say my little joke about my New Year resolution being a diet is not so much of a little joke anymore. The sacrifices I make.

Today was a surprising treat. I got word, early on, that the Fishlips Sushi truck was to be along Miracle mile. Admittedly, even I am slightly apprehensive about eating my sushi from a truck, but you know, I must TRY it. It’s on my list. And so I headed down Wilshire to find Fishlips, but I also knew I’d end up rolling through a couple of blocks with any number of other food truck options along the way. The first two I came across were Baby’s Badass Burgers and Barbie’s Q; also, both on my list. As you may know, I have already tried, desperately, to hit Baby’s BB. So I it was there that I parked. In the end, however, I ended up at Barbie’s Q. I was more in the mood for bbq than a burger. Also the owner, John Bowler, was standing in front of the truck taking orders and saw me taking pictures (he’s on the right in the photo below). I suppose he sealed the deal for me. I love it when the universe gives me a sign.

 I ordered their signature sandwich, the pulled pork, with a side of barbeque baked beans ($7). I will say that I thought (and still think) that’s a bit steep for food truck food. Regardless, I found my little perch and chomped away. I really liked this food. The pork is served up on a baguette, which I was reticent about - I like my bbq buns to be soft and absorbent. But the baguette really worked, actually, and it wasn’t too hard. The roof of my mouth garnered no scrapes. The pork was succulent and delicious. The sauce was smoky and sweet. Although I am more of a Carolina bbq kinda gal, and opt for the tangy, vinegary style, this was pretty tasty. While I would have preferred it spread throughout the meat more, I appreciated that the sandwich wasn’t super sloppified with the sauce. The beans were a striking side dish, utilizing 4 different kinds of beans, complimenting the pork beautifully.

I hear that their cobbler is wondrous, so I will certainly return and make sure to save room for desert. This will, of course, be next year, when I fit back into my clothing. Sigh.

Oh, here's my favorite, secret, spot to sit and eat at the 5900 Wilshire location. Isn't it lovely?